AIrving

Last updated 01:00, Thursday, 06 September 2007

Top Tipples with Alan Irving

FORGET chardonnay for the moment. It may be the world’s most popular white but that doesn’t mean it’s always the best. Sauvignon blanc doesn’t sound as sexy but it’s a scintillating white, a great alternative to chardonnay, a different taste, if not to say a very distinctive aroma.

Sauvignon blanc has to be my most favourite of whites, thanks to the way this straw-coloured liquid attacks the palate and the senses. Crisp, flinty and razor sharp just like a classy chardonnay with but with its own unique refreshing dry but fruity flavours. It’s grown all over the world but notably in Marlborough, New Zealand, and the beautiful Loire Valley in France. The Kiwis reckon they’ve beaten the French at their own game.

It’s New World vs Old World. At one time New Zealand, although it’s noted for a wide range of good quality wines, staked its reputation on Marlborough sauvignon. Cloudy Bay proved the trail blazer in a valley which used to be better known for sheep. But according to the French it’s not quite the proper stuff, lacking soul.

The French don’t bother putting the name of the grape on their most important labels so the ones you most have to look out for knowing they are sauvignon blanc are called Sancerre and Pouilly-Fume, not to be confused with the Pouilly-Fuisse which is a chardonnay from Macon in Burgundy.

Sancerre and Poilly-Fume are both gorgeous examples of sauvignon blanc, with good examples to be found in all the local supermarkets but at more than a fiver!

From Tesco, I got a reasonably priced Sancerre (£6.99) domaine bottled and a sheer gooseberry delight to drink, and smell.

New Zealand’s finest do seem to come from Marlborough, once better known for sheep grazing apparently, and for a bench-mark introduction what better way than to start with The Whitehaven Wine.

It has no connection with us really but who cares. Richardson & Sons on Lowther Street were quick to seize on its potential and The Whitehaven Wine has become one of their best sellers. Deservedly so because it’s an outstanding wine. The winemaker Simon Waghorn has become of New Zealand’s best after being given his big chance by vineyard owner, one Greg White. And the 2006 vintage in stock now is said to be one of the finest ever in Marlborough.

I couldn’t find any of the flagship, no doubt expensive Cloudy Bay around, but look out for Oyster Bay, also from New Zealand. Especially as from next week both the Co-op and Morrisons will have it on special offer at £5.99 – that’s a significant £2 off, and 2006 vintage, too. Not to be confused with Oyster Bay chardonnay on special offer just now! Sauvignon blanc has to be the next flavour of the month. And if you want an inexpensive taster then try the Les Jamelles from the south of France which Morrisons have for only £3.99 (£1 off).