AIrving

Last updated 01:00, Thursday, 25 October 2007

Top Tipples with Alan Irving

DON’T judge a wine by its label, that’s a good general rule to follow but some can be just irresistible...like Cycles Gladiator.

The label depicts a naked lady with long flaming red hair, flying through the air clutching the handlebars of an old-fashioned bicycle bearing wings – it’s actually a famed work of Parisian art.

With absolute confidence, I can say the contents are as tasty as the label, especially as it’s a pinot noir, my most favourite grape.

It’s from California and, not surprisingly, makes an eye-catching, exclusive appearance on the shelves of the Co-op at Cleator Moor.

Gallo, Blossom Hill, Fetzer, the excellent Mondavi....these are the usual American suspects in the local supermarkets, but unless the price is right I imagine they can struggle against the big hitters of Australia, South Africa and Spain.

My growing interest in wines from California – stimulated by the latest Oz and James’ Big Wine Adventure – persuaded me to try something different, I’d never come across Cycles Gladiator anywhere else and I am glad I didn’t resist the £6.99 price tag.

It’s special, no wonder wine is being called the new gold of California.

Practically nine out of every 10 bottles of American wine comes from the sunshine state and there’s just about every grape variety under the sun, especially cabernet sauvignon, merlot and chardonnay.

But the Americans love fashion. Ever since the film Sideways it’s pinot noir which has become fashionable and for California’s dedicated producers, determined to prove they're no longer second best to Burgundy, the original and spiritual home of pinot, it’s like a search for the holy grail. This is because pinot is one of the most fickle and difficult grapes to grow, it needs just the right balance of rain, sunshine and soil.

But with cooling breezes from the Pacific, California is having some brilliant success rivalling the best of the New World, particularly New Zealand although Chile and parts of Australia are managing to turn out some stunners in their own fashion.

Burgundy, with its near perfect conditions, still produces the most magical, velvety examples (Gevry Chambertin, Nuits St George, Beaune and the like) but at a price.

Cycles Gladiator is a fraction of what you’d pay for a top class pinot from Burgundy or New Zealand – a good body, rich and smooth with all those unmistakable red berry fruit flavours and aromas, with a touch of spice and herbs thrown in.

The wine, and certainly its risque artwork, is said to capture the spirit, grace and happiness of the Belle Epoque era of the 19th century, a golden age of cycling.

It promises you “the ride of your life” – in wine terms I wouldn’t argue too much with that, and at £6.99 it certainly won’t take you for a ride pocket-wise!