Tuesday, 09 February 2010

TopTipples: Alan Irving

JUST back from Burgundy, I remain convinced that the wine from the fabled Cote d’Or – the golden slope – is the finest on the planet, but it’s a question of making sure price suits the pocket.

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Beaune: Home the wine capital of Burgundy

My annual pilgrimage to beautiful Beaune, the wine capital of Burgundy, confirmed that but it didn’t stop prices continuing to rise at the venerable Hospice de Beaune.

This is where the movers and shakers of the wine world (as well as well-off private individuals – not me!) take part in a prestigious Christie’s barrel auction which more or less sets the market value for which the new vintage will be sold.

A percentage of the profits goes towards helping the poor and needy of Burgundy and maintenance of the ancient hospice, which in times past served as a hospital and is a sight to behold inside and out.

The 149th Vente des Vins is a weekend of carnival celebration and definitely one of the great events in the wine world and where some of us continue to search for The Holy Grail!

The Les Trois Glorieuses is three days of good eating and drinking. Main highlight for public consumption is what’s called the Grand Degustation where 10,000 bottles representing 3,000 different burgundy wines can be tasted. You are advised to sample and spit, otherwise it’s very much at your own peril.

My travelling companion David Siddall, as we reported last week, remained steady enough to win the cork-pulling competition, an important part of the fete in its own right, effectively beating the French at their own game.

Returning home on the Eurostar (Dijon, historic capital of Burgundy, is roughly 90 minutes from Paris by TGV) makes it all the more attractive, or did before the euro closed rapidly on sterling!

Back in West Cumbria, my grouse is that there simply aren’t enough special bottles of burgundy on the shelves. Best stockist is Richardson & Son on Lowther Street, Whitehaven, whose range includes the famous Gevrey Chambertin, Nuits St George and some of the best from Beaune’s own vineyards.

I’m just a bit disappointed in the supermarket range at present – I wish the local Tesco would up the ante from the more humble pre-entry level bourgogne, but credit to Morrisons at both Whitehaven and Workington for stocking some pretty decent Gevrey and Nuits, just the job for the festive season.

Burgundy and game are the perfect match, but honestly it goes equally well with all meats, especially turkey, all because of what the wine buffs call balance and harmony. It is a rich, almost sensual wine in smell and taste, a combination of body and velvety elegance.

Its greatest advocates refer to divinity and capturing a glimpse of paradise.

Not just pinot noir reds but also wonderful whites, for Burgundy is also the spiritual home of great chardonnay, so consider spending a little more for a Mersault or a Chablis this Christmastime.

A wine so special that it commands its own royal family, the Kings and the Queens of Burgundy!

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